The Colors of Spain

Here are a few pictures from our trip to Spain in October 2012.  The pictures were taken at various locations in Madrid, Sevilla, Écija, and Córdoba.

Grid Tie Solar Plug and Play in the US

 

While other countries have commercially available grid tie solar plug and play systems (http://solar-power-station.co.uk/), the US does not.  At least one US company has committed to such a product (http://clarianpower.com/), but it is not yet available.

As part of the US DOE’s SunShot initiative to support a multi-source approach to meeting the country’s energy needs, a meeting was held in Washington, DC on October 27, 2011 to focus on the development of plug-and-play solar technologies in the residential sector. The purpose of the workshop was to identify the current barriers and possible solutions for these technologies. Over 60 people attended the conference, including representatives from utilities, code officials, inverter companies, PV module companies, and installers.

Here is a summary of the results of that meeting:  http://www1.eere.energy.gov/solar/pdfs/solar_plug_play_2011.pdf

Although there seemed to be a lot of off-topic discussions, a few big issues emerged:

1.  How to deal with current permitting requirements for electrical issues. 

Suggestions for dealing with electrical safety issues to avoid permitting and inspections by local code enforcers seemed to be fairly straightforward:

--UL listing for PV system: NEC 90.7 Equipment that is listed “need not be inspected at the time of installation.”
– Develop a standard PV plug at the utility meter (or elsewhere)
– Changes to the National Electrical Code are required (we are on writing code council)
– Smart, PV-ready circuit breakers.

2.  How to deal with current permitting requirements for structural safety issues.

Suggestions for dealing with structural issues such as modules resisting windy conditions and PV systems compromising building structures were less imminent and not as practical.

--Can we build a PV system on a residential home that is
• Light-weight (polymer)
• Requires no roofing penetrations (can’t have roof leaks)
• Requires few (or no) tools to install
– Can we design a PV module/array that fits around a roof like a fitted sheet on a
bed?
– Establish requirements for solar ready houses (standardized roof jacks)
– Consider composites, polymers… integrating frames and mounting systems can dramatically reduce weight.

3. There was also discussion about how to integrate Plug and Play Solar arrays with smart grid issues.

I learned a few things from reading the summit results.  The electrical safety concerns seem to be fairly easily overcome.  Many of the obstacles are not difficult safety barriers, but more code-related.  Limiting the Watt size of plug and play systems on each branch circuit allays overloading concerns.

According to NEC 90.7, UL listing is not required, but if non-UL listed equipment is used it must be inspected at the time of installation.  Some advocated a UL listing for the entire system (modules, wiring, inverters, connectors), while others advocated each component be UL listed. 

There are concerns about using the standard three prong plug to simply plug into an existing outlet.  They talked about developing a USB like plug specific to PV systems so people aren’t exposed to live conductors on the male end of the plug.    I don’t really understand the concerns here.  An anti-islanding grid tie inverter shuts off when it is pulled out of the outlet, effectively cutting off current to the plug, and protecting the user from contact with exposed conductors.  The British system uses a standard outlet connection with anti-islanding China-made inverters.

Given the seeming lack of consensus on the structural issues associated with attaching plug and play to buildings, it seems simply requiring ground mounting makes the most sense.  I think keeping people without fall protection off of roofs is a good thing.  Many commercial solar firms working on roofs don’t even provide fall protection systems to their employees, and there are several deaths from roof falls annually in the business.

As a result of the workshop, in January 2012 the DOE announced a 3 year grant program to fund studies on plug and play solar issues that came up in the workshop:  https://eere-exchange.energy.gov/Default.aspx?Search=plug&SearchType=.  It appears that it will be a few more years before commercial plug and play grid tie systems hit the markets in the US, and with the desire to incorporate smart grid components into the system, more than a simple inverter will be required.

So why is the whole issue of plug and play grid tie solar so important?  A 500 watt back yard grid tie system generates about 650 kWh of electricity each year where I live.  In my local utility area, that translates to about 9% of the average residential customer’s annual electricity use.  Besides saving money for the customers, widespread use of these systems could slow the need for new power plants and drastically reduce carbon emissions.  I also recently read the book “The Big Thirst” by Charles Fishman, and learned that steam generating power plants use over 200 billion gallons of water a day to make steam and cool heat exchangers (http://powerscorecard.org/issue_detail.cfm?issue_id=5).  Solar modules require no water for cooling.

While we wait for commercially available plug and play grid tie systems, DIYers need a UL-listed DC to 120V AC inverter, or guidelines for inspectors when non-UL listed equipment is installed, and code revisions that allow connection to the grid.  If other countries have already overcome plug and play solar obstacles, why can’t we?  As the world becomes flatter and hotter, is a three year wait for plug and play solar that is already available elsewhere acceptable?

Our Experience with the Giani Granite Countertop Paint Kit—February 2012

 
For several months my wife and I discussed how we could give a makeover to our old laminate kitchen countertop. We don’t have a big countertop. The sink countertop is L-shaped, 8 feet in length, with the L part extending about 18 inches from the 2 foot wide main section. We also have a 2 foot by 2 foot desk section that matches the sink countertop. All told, we have 11.5 feet of standard 2 foot wide countertop.

We investigated our makeover options in the typical fashion. After being shocked by the megaprice of granite, and even the $600 cost of replacing the existing countertop with another laminate top, we investigated tiling the countertop. I even bought a tile saw. Before buying the tile, we ran across some information on countertop paint kits, and visited the Giani Granite website http://gianigranite.com/indexcountertoppaint.html to learn more. Encouraged by the testimonials both on the Giani site and elsewhere on the web, we decided to try the kit. It appears that in the last few years Giani’s marketing strategy has been to give away kits to bloggers in return for writing up their experiences. We are not one of those bloggers. We bought the Giani Sicilian Sand kit on Amazon.com for $69.95 including shipping. Here is a “before” picture of our countertop:

Our countertop was in great shape structurally, but had many superficial scratches and stains.  The color also did not go with the laminate floor we put in a couple years ago.

There is a matching desk section that we use for the microwave oven.

After watching the instructional DVD and armed with the detailed Giani paint kit instructions, we started the project on Saturday morning, February 18. We were aiming to replace the sink with our countertop makeover, so I shut the power off to the disposal and spent a couple hours disconnecting the disposal, water lines, dishwasher and sink drain lines, and pulling up the chipped old 50 pound porcelain over cast iron sink. I found that the countertop cutout for the sink was too small for the Elkay Lustertone stainless sink we were planning to put in, so I had to spend some time enlarging the sink cutout. It was not easy because my jigsaw wouldn’t reach the back edge of the cutout due to the presence of the backsplash. After some effort I finally enlarged the sink cutout.

On Saturday afternoon my wife Jeanne and I scrubbed the countertop using SOS pads, and cut away the silicone caulking that had been used at the joint between the countertop and bottom edge of the backsplash, and where the backsplash and counter met the walls. While the silicone caulk cut away easily, it left a layer on every surface where it was cut away. We used razor scrapers, and even sandpaper, but we could not remove the silicone caulk residue from the Formica surfaces. Removal of all the residue is important because paint will not stick to the residue. Following the instructions in the Giani instructional DVD that came with the kit, we wiped the silicone caulk residue with isopropyl alcohol as instructed, but it did not remove the silicone residue. From reading on the web, wiping the silicone caulk with denatured alcohol only works if the caulk has not set up.

Frustrated with the several hours we spent trying to get the residue off, we decided to go ahead and roll the first coat black primer onto the cleaned countertop. After taping off all the edges and placing craft paper in front of the cabinets for protection, we rolled on the iron coat black primer. The primer went on well and completely covered the surfaces—except where the silicone caulk had been. Here is a picture of the areas where the primer did not adhere due to the silicone caulk residue:

 

Wherever there was silicone caulk residue, the primer did not adhere.  We skimmed over these areas with black, paintable acrylic caulk, then primed the caulk after it dried.  That approached worked well.

Sunday, February 19. After sleeping on the problem, we decided to see if we could cover over the silicone caulk residue with a paintable material. I went to our local Home Depot and got a tube of Dap Alex black colored paintable caulk, and on Sunday I put a very light skim of caulk over the areas where the primer didn’t adhere, blending it in with where the primer did adhere. After letting it dry 4 hours, I hand painted those areas with the little foam brush provided in the kit, and the primer adhered well. Due to the very light skim application, you really couldn’t see where I had applied the caulk. We let the caulk and primer dry overnight.

Monday, February 20. We practiced applying the three color coats with the pieces of sea sponge using the black paper supplied in the kit. After getting the hang of it, we started applying the color coats. In the Sicilian Sand Kit, the three colors that go on after the primer are feldspar brown, Inca gold, and then finally limestone white. There were several lessons learned in this part of the job. First, we learned to work in small two foot sections so the wet paint layers blend into each other. Another key pointer is to use the paint sparingly on vertical back splash surfaces and countertop edges because it will run. We had trouble getting into the corners with the sponges, so we used the recommended half inch brush a lot in the corners to apply the three layers of paints. When we finished applying the paint layers to the countertops we weren’t quite happy with the way it looked, so we decided to let it dry and work on it again on Tuesday.

Tuesday, February, 21. We noticed several areas where the patterns didn’t look random enough. Using all four colors to “fix up” the areas we were concerned about, we finally arrived at good enough. A key was reapplying black splotches in the areas where we had put too many colors. We let our color paint layer dry overnight and here's what we got:

The primer and color coats have been painted on, awaiting the polyurethane top coats.

For us, painting inside corners was difficult with the smallest sponge section.  We did most of the corners with a half inch paintbrush, and used the sponge to give it some texture.

Close-up of the color coats before applying the polyurethane.

Wednesday, February 22. We lightly sanded the color coat with 600 grit sandpaper and wiped it  with a damp cloth. After letting the damp surface dry for an hour, we rolled on the first polyurethane coat following the instructions. A key in this step is keeping the roller wet so that you don’t hear the SSSS sound of a dry roller rolling over the surface.

Thursday, February 23. Jeanne lightly sanded the first polyurethane coat with 600 grit sandpaper, and rolled on the second layer of polyurethane. When this coat dried, she was not happy with one section where the roller had dried, so she wanted to reapply some polyurethane in that area.

Friday, February 24. In the a.m. Jeanne lightly sanded the repair area, wiped it down, waited for it to dry and reapplied the polyurethane in that area to her satisfaction. On Friday night when Ken returned from work he caulked the interior seams with Alex 230 Crystal Clear acrylic caulk, and the areas where the backsplash meets the wall with Alex 230 brilliant white acrylic caulk.

Saturday, February 25. The new sink was set in place using Loctite Polyseamseal Ultra and the Elkay sink clips. The water lines, disposer, dishwasher and sink drain lines were reattached and the job was completed.

Our impression: This kit exceeded our expectations. The renewed countertops, new sink and new faucet transformed the look of our kitchen. We think the countertops look fabulous, and hope that they will provide many years of service.  Here are the results:

The top polyurethane coats gave the countertop a highly glossy finish.

Sink area.

Desk area.

Our "after" picture of the countertop.

March 22, 2012 Update:  It has been about a month now since we applied the last coat of polyurethane to the countertop. The top has held up well to daily use, but we have observed something interesting on two occasions.  Once, we set a pineapple on the countertop overnight with the cut stem side down.   When we picked up the pineapple in the morning, there were small blisters in the finish where the stem was on contact with the countertop.   You could feel small bumps on the polyurethane in that area.  We wiped down the area with a damp cloth, and then had to go somewhere.  When we came back a few hours later, the blisters had disappeared and the top looked and felt as smooth as if nothing had happened.
On a second occasion, my son put a hot coffee cup down on the countertop and left it in place overnight.  In the morning, there small blisters in the shape of a ring where the cup bottom had been in contact with the top.  We again wiped down the top with water in that area, and within an hour the blister ring disappeared and the top looked as if nothing had taken place. 
Perhaps our top has not fully cured and hardened, but it has been interesting to see that both of these “injuries” were “healed” by wiping with a damp cloth.
February 21, 2013 Update:  It has now been about a year since we did our countertop makeover. I have been very happy with how the countertop has held up in daily kitchen use during the first year.  I think it took about 6 months to fully cure the polyurethane top coats.  I say that because as mentioned in the update above, for about the first six months we had to be careful about leaving long-standing water on the top or you could feel the little bumps in the area where the water had been.  We noticed that his happened especially when wet cups were left on the countertop overnight and the countertop surface was wet under the cup for a long time.  When the counter surface dried out, the bumps always went away and there was no permanent damage, but we took care to make sure the top was wiped dry after we figured out what was going on.
After about six months, we noticed that long-standing water exposure to the countertop was no longer a problem, and I think it is because the polyurethane coat had fully cured.  If the polyurethane is truly an automotive grade coating as Giani claims, it makes sense that it would take a while to fully cure at room temperature.  In a car manufacturing facility, after the clear coatings are applied the cars are usually baked in a high temperature oven to quickly cure the polyurethane.  At room temperature, I think the curing process takes a lot longer, and in our case about 6 months seemed to be the time it took to fully cure.  Cosmetically, the countertop still looks wonderful, and still shines like new.  I am very happy with the new life that the countertop paint gave to my old laminate kitchen countertop.
Final Update:  The Giani countertop paint lasted about three years, and then the clearcoat began to degrade. It began to peel away in the highest use areas, and where hot things were placed on the countertop.  Soon the undercoat began to peel away, revealing the blue formica beneath it.  I suppose I could have been more diligent to reapply a clearcoat when it began to degrade, but I didn't do that.  Painting the countertop was a good cosmetic fix until we were able to remodel our kitchen in 2017.  We now have a granite top. Here's the new look.

My Problems with an E.F. Durand F-trigger Trombone from Great Tunes Direct (greattunesdirect) and USA Music Supply (usamusicsupply) on E-bay

In late August 2011 I bought a Brass Tenor F Trigger Trombone w/ Tune Slide” from Great Tunes Direct through their E-bay site.
 
When the trombone arrived, I played the horn for a few days, and noticed that the slide was grabbing at a few positions and did not slide as smoothly as I would like.  Within a week of receiving the horn (well within their stipulated 14 day return period), I contacted Great Tunes Direct in Twin Falls, ID through email to see if I could exchange my slide for one that worked better.  Christina, their customer service representative sent me a return email saying they would be glad to send a new slide, but that I would need to return the old slide to them at my expense. I agreed, and they shipped a new slide to me on September 23.

I bought this new trombone because I needed a larger bore horn (.547) for playing in a community orchestra.  The horn sounded very nice, and I was quite pleased with the new slide.  About three weeks after receiving the new slide, I started to notice a scratchiness in the slide movement.  When I pulled the slide apart to inspect the inner tubes, I found that one of the inner slide tube stockings had begun to lose its plating, and was pitting badly.  I had only used the slide for about 10 hours of total playing time.  Here are some pictures of what I saw when I inspected the replacement slide:

On October 19, 2011 I sent the following email to Steve Di Lucca at Great Tunes along with the pictures above: 

Dear Steve,
I recently bought a trombone from you on eBay.  After I received the trombone, I immediately sent the slide back to you for repair because the slide was grabbing in certain positions.  I don’t currently have the RMA number you sent to me before I returned the slide for repair, but the slide came back to me working well.  I have only been playing the trombone consistently for about 3 weeks now since I got the repaired slide back, and I noticed a scratching sound and feel in the slide other night when I was playing.  When I took the outer slide tube off the inner tubes, I saw that the nickel plating is chipping off one of the inner slide tubes.  I have attached pictures of the nickel plating failure.  I’m wondering if this could be related to the repair of the slide?  The slide has been very well lubricated over the last few weeks.

In any case, I really like the horn, and would like to have the slide replaced with one that works freely without binding AND has the nickel plating in good shape. I am currently playing in an community orchestra with an upcoming concert, and I can’t send you the old slide back until a new one comes because it is my only horn.  Can you please help me out?  I was promised a “High Quality” instrument when I bought it from you, and so far, it has not lived up to the promise. 
Thanks for your help.

I received a response to this email from Christina, and she said she would follow-up with Steve.  I didn’t hear anything, so I gave a call to Steve Di Lucca to see if we could resolve this problem.  Steve said  they had been selling this horn for many years and had not had any problems with it.  He told me that I might have “acidic saliva” that was causing the problem.  I contended that the plating was bad on the slide, and that it should not have failed after three weeks (10 hours of use).  After some wrangling, Steve said they would send me a new slide, and that I would need to send the defective slide back to them at my expense.  He also said that this would be the last effort their company would make to provide a working horn.

I received the new slide as promised about a week and a half later, and sent the defective slide back.  The new slide worked very smoothly, and an inspection of the slide before any use showed no pitting or deplating of the inner slide.  I was happily playing the horn at my orchestra practices for about a month, when I began to notice the scratchiness in the slide movement again.  I pulled the slide apart, and THIS slide was beginning to lose plating on one of the stockings as well.  I felt so disappointed.  This horn has a very nice sound, and all I wanted was a horn that I could use in the orchestra.  Here is a picture of the second slide stocking that deplated within a month of use:

Although I was not hopeful, I contacted Steve Di Lucca after the second slide plating failed.  Since the horn had a “Manufacturer’s Two Year Warranty”, I decided to try to contact the manufacturer directly to get the slide replaced.  Here was Steve’s reply to my inquiry:

WOW! What is going on? I've been selling this horn for over ten years and NEVER have I had a slide with this issue. OK, maybe the first one was blemished, but the second and now third slide? No way is this a result of manufacturing defect. There is something going one on your end that is causing this. Because it is a user issue, it is no longer eligible for the warranty. At this point we are finished. I am sorry but, I have bent over backwards to accommodate your requests.

The warranty is very clear on what is covered. Whatever you are doing is causing the issue, thus nullifies the warranty. We are the manufacturer and we deal with the warranty work so there is no other place to contact. You are past the return period. As you acknowledge in your email we have done all that we can for you. I am now out two slides which leave two horns without slides until next year when I get a new shipment.
I wish you luck and am sorry for issue.
Steve Di Lucca

We went back and forth by email a few more times, and I finally asked him for a refund on the horn.  He refused, and that was the end of our conversations.

Despite Steve’s assertion that “we are the manufacturer,” I know that this is a Chinese-made horn, and the Great Tunes does not make them in Idaho.  While I am grateful for the attempts that Steve and Great Tunes made to give me a playable horn, in the end, the manufacturing defects of this Chinese horn sabotaged their efforts.  I feel that as the US marketer for these horns, Great Tunes needs stand behind them even when they fail.  They did not satisfactorily resolve my issues, and I’m unfortunately left with a case full of shiny metal.

I am very disappointed in the company’s resolution of this matter, and hope that anyone considering a musical instrument purchase from Great Tunes Direct would consider my recent experience there.